LONDON – No profit grows, Shakespeare once wrote, where no pleasure is taken. And so in the tedious march of life, we find joy in small things: The rising of the sun. A fine glass of wine. The greasy snap of a well-dressed potato crisp.
But soft! Not so fast. Life affords no simple pleasures, and even that delectable crunch comes with a weighty debate: How much potato doth a true crisp – chip, to the Americans – contain?
This – and several other probing questions of the crisp aficionado – was immortalised by a British tax appeals court last week, which ruled that Walkers Sensations Poppadoms, the fluffy, non-crisp-appearing potato medallions, are, in fact, the same as potato crisps.
Thus, we add to the hallowed roster of existential food debates, the moral implications of which far surpass their subjects’ consumable utility. Among them: Is a Jaffa Cake a cake, or a biscuit? Does a Chicago-style pie count as pizza? Is a hot dog a sandwich? Do you prefer Wawa over Sheetz, or are you wrong?
The ruling means Walkers, the company that makes poppadoms and dozens of other snack foods, will have to pay the same value-added tax on its poppadoms as it does on its various crisps.
More important, a trial judge has recorded for all man- and crisp-loving-kind the sort of dictate that is sure to disproportionately irritate the masses.
“Food is probably one of the most visceral, powerful ways of expressing cultural identity,” said Dr Ty Matejowsky, a professor of anthropology at the University of Central Florida. As such, he said, the court ruling was unlikely to change anyone’s crisp-related opinion.
The label of Walkers crisps bears distinct similarities to the American Lays potato chip brand, and also distribute Doritos in Britain. It’s because they are all owned by Pepsico, which kept the Walkers brand name in Britain and Ireland. The label is different, but they are effectively the same chip.
A poppadom, an Anglicised version of the Indian “papadum”, is a flat, crunchy, circular wafer typically made with gram flour. Traditionally, they are about the size of a tortilla. Walkers, though, freelanced the design into a smaller form, closer to the size of a potato chip, which they introduced with the help of a Sikh Elvis impersonator in the late 1980s.
The Walkers dispute bears uncanny resemblance to the great Pringles decision of 2008, when a British high court judge ruled the ubiquitous canned snacks also counted as crisps, despite tax-related arguments to the contrary.
At its colloquial heart, the debate is about whether poppadoms are food or snack. For the law’s purposes, “food” requires preparation and is intended to be eaten as part of something bigger. “Snacks” are efficient packages that can be enjoyed on their own. Like, say, a bag of potato chips.
It may sound like a trivial distinction, but when it comes to British tax law, it’s no small claim. Where most food items are tax-exempt, the current Value Added Tax rate for snacks such as crisps is 20 per cent, putting the potential stakes of Walkers’ poppadom play in the multimillions.
“It’s a lot of money for the government,” said Dr Catherine Clarke, a senior law lecturer at the University of Exeter. “It’s all really silly. But that’s where we are.”
The ruling is the latest in a yearslong journey for Walkers, which has claimed since 2021 that its Sensations Poppadoms are not the same as their potato crisp cousins, and hence should be tax-exempt like most other foods.
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